Western Riding

Western Riding 101

Western Horse UK magazine has published training, coaching and community articles for UK western riders for over ten years. The following information is a compilation of articles printed in Western Horse UK to help those starting to ride western discover a little more about this unique riding style.

 

Western Tack and Equipment

 

Parts of the Western Bridle

The Western bridle comprises three main parts: the headstall, the bit and the reins. The headstall consists of a head or crown piece, cheek pieces and, sometimes, a browband and throatlatch, which help hold the bridle in place.

The reins usually consist of two pieces of leather up to eight feet long. They attach to each side of the bit and are commonly either 1/2" or 5/8" wide.

1. crown piece

2. browband

3. cheek piece

4. throatlatch

5. where the bit attaches

 

 

Over the ears

1. The brow band can be straight across the brow, while other browbands are two pieces of leather joined in the middle to form a knot, sometimes known as a Futurity Knot.

2. One and two-ear headstalls do away with the browband and use either a piece of leather with openings in or loops of leather attached to the crown piece that fits over one or both ears.

 

 

Snaffles

Snaffles are commonly used on horses at the beginning of their training when direct rein aids are applied. A leather curb strap prevents the snaffle from slipping.

Snaffle bits are 'non-leverage' bits that act directly on the tongue, palette and corners of the mouth when the reins are shortened. The mouthpiece can be jointed or solid.

The thinner the mouthpiece, the more severe the action. Twisted wire snaffles are used by experienced trainers to 'lighten' a heavy mouth but must be used with care.

 

Parts of the Bit

Bits influence pressure on a horse's mouth, chin and poll and, when trained correctly, allow the rider control.

1. bar

2. mouth

3. port

4. roller

5. shank

 

Curbs

Curb bits are used on more advanced, necked reined horses as a refining aid which causes a horse to lower his head and shape his body.

Their action is potentially severe, so a horse in a curb bit must be ridden with care.

Curb bits have a 'leverage’ action and are used in conjunction with a curb chain which runs under the horse's chin. As a rider takes the slack from the reins by raising their hand, the curb's action is felt in the mouth, over the horse's poll (where the bridle runs behind his ears) and under the chin through the curb chain.

The leverage action of an S-shaped shank will be slightly different than a bit with straighter shanks. The weight of the bit and how the curb chain is adjusted will also make a difference to what a horse feels when the bit is activated.

 

Ports

A port is an inverted U-shaped in the middle of a mouthpiece. A low port makes room for the tongue and prevents the horse from putting it over the mouthpiece.

A high port also places pressure on the palate of the horse's mouth and must be used with care. Some ports will also have a roller – a moveable part which gives a nervous horse 'something to play with,' causing it to relax its jaw and accept the action of the bit. It is said that copper and sweet iron metals also cause the horse to salivate and accept the bit's action.

Ports that are solid rather than made of a U-shaped bar are called spoons or spades.

 

Guide to Western Saddles: Parts of a Western Saddle

Fork/Swells/Pommel - This area varies by name depending on the saddle type: In a Western saddle, this area is known as the fork or swells, and in an English saddle, it's referred to exclusively as the pommel.

The gullet is an essential part of the saddle. It is a tunnel that protects the horse's withers. Too low can hit their withers and cause pain or injury.

There is a large space on the underside of the tree, which forms the gullet channel. The gullet channel reduces pressure on the horse's spine and central nervous system.

The horn, or saddle horn, is the most recognisable part of a Western saddle. A saddle horn's best-known use is to secure one end of a rope while the other end is secured on a cow, calf, or whatever it is you've roped. Saddle horns are helpful for many things, including getting on or off a horse and hanging saddlebags.

 Seat - The part of the saddle that the rider sits on.

The cantle connects the bars at the back and supports the back of the seat. A lower cantle can make it easier for you to dismount quickly for cattle work, while a higher cantle supports your back and keeps you in your seat as your horse is twisting and turning better for Barrel racing.

Latigo Keeper - The latigo is a strip of leather that runs around the horse's girth and back to the rear cinch on the saddle. It attaches with a small tab with a horizontal slit, which has an essential function in securing many Western saddles.

Latigo - This strap is made of tough leather or nylon and secures the front cinch to the horse.

A blevin is a belt buckle used to adjust the saddle for people with different leg lengths and secure stirrup length in place.

A billet strap, usually made of leather, sometimes nylon is located on either side of the saddle. It is used to hold the cinch in place. English saddles typically have billet straps on both sides, whereas a western saddle has an off-billet strap (on the right side for riding left, and vice versa) with one latigo strap (near side).

Stirrup hobble straps are used to keep the stirrup fender extensions in place. The strap is placed around the bottom of the extension and closed tightly with buckles on one end and holes for the buckles on the other. To maintain the turn of stirrup leathers, use hobbles. The stirrups should always hang at a 90-degree angle to the fender so that your feet can slip easily into them, and these straps will hold them in that position.

Western saddles have two leg shields that protect the rider; these are the fenders.

The stirrup is the triangular piece where the rider rests their feet while riding. The stirrups' purpose is to support the rider's legs and help maintain a proper position in which your horse also benefits.

The stirrup leathers hold the stirrups and are made of heavy leather.

The jockeys run the saddle length, protect the rider's leg, and provide a finished look. Front, back, and side jockeys are found on most saddles.

The saddle skirt protects the horse's back from pressure. They also help to stabilise and distribute weight on a larger surface area.

 

Saddling a Western Horse

Follow this step-by-step guide by Beth Stefani and get your horse saddled with minimal fuss.

 

1. Tie your horse up before saddling. If he is a fidget, you should get him used to being cross tied using two lead ropes clipped to either side of his halter and attached to two sturdy posts.
2. Ensure your horse is well brushed with all mud, sweat and loose hair removed. Pay particular attention to the cinch and saddle areas. Any rubs or sores here will mean no riding until they have healed.
3. Standing on the horse's left, place the saddle pad on his back, just forward of where it will eventually rest. Slide the pad back into the proper position just behind the withers so that your horse's coat lays flat.
4. Ensure the offside stirrup and cinch are flipped up over the saddle's seat before placing it on the horse.
5. Still standing on the left side, lift the saddle up and place it gently and squarely on the horse's back, making sure it's centred. Going around to the other side, pull down the cinch and stirrup.
6. From the left side again, hook the left stirrup over the horn, then reach under the horse's belly and pull the cinch toward you.
7. Thread the latigo from the left side and pass it through the ring on the end of the cinch. You may need to do this twice. Pull out the slack and fasten it off like a belt. If you need to tie your latigo, thread it around the back of the D ring to the left, and bring it around to the front and back through. The end should come through the middle of the D and thread down behind the loop you have just made (like tying a tie). Pull tightly again.
8. If there is also a flank billet (rear cinch), fasten it so you can fit a hand between it and the horse. Also, make sure to connect the rear cinch to the front cinch with a strap. If you don't, the rear cinch will slide back, causing the horse discomfort.
9. When you are ready to ride, untie your horse, put on his bridle and walk him forward a few strides. Go back to his cinch and tighten it up before mounting.

 

Swing technique

If you are struggling with the weight of the saddle, try the following:

Stand by the horse's left shoulder with the saddle on your right hip. Your right hand should be on the off side of the cantle, while your left hand should be on the near side at the base of the fork.

Place your feet shoulder-width apart with your left foot forward and near the horse's front hoof with your right foot slightly behind your left foot.

Rock your body back and to the right three times to build momentum. As your body comes forward from the third rocking motion, pivot your torso so that your stomach faces the horse. Swing the saddle up and over with your right arm as if you'd like to hug your horse.

 

Western Horse Events

This section will walk you through the main events where competitive western riders show their horses.

 

What is Reining?

Reining - this is one of the most well-known disciples and, at the time of writing, an FEI sport. A thrilling sport to watch and an exciting challenge for riders who compete. If spins, slides, flying changes, fast and slow runs are your thing, read on.

Reining is a pattern class; each horse and rider are judged on the accuracy of the pattern, to be completed from memory.

It is often described as the western form of dressage as it requires the horse and rider to be in tune with each other to perform the movements without the rider's aids being seen.

Originating from cattle work as the work required responsive horses that could change direction quickly and "stop on a dime". These horses need to be ridden with leg aids and weight and only a light rein so that the cowboy can focus on the task at hand.

Each pattern includes the following manoeuvres, which the horse and rider should perform smoothly and accurately, which includes controlling speed.

 

Reining Manoeuvres

360-degree spins

The horse should turn around a complete 360 with the inside hind leg stationary. In other words, pivot around the inside hind leg. Spins are judged on correctness, smoothness and cadence.

Flying lead changes

To complete a flying change, the horse switches the leading front and hind legs during the moment of suspension. The transition is judged on precision; early or late changes will have points deducted.

Small slow circles and Large fast circles

Performed at two gaits, a slow, three-beat, relaxed canter known as the lope and the gallop, a four-beat gait. Circles should be perfectly round, and the change of pace between small slow circles and large fast circles should be without any difficulty.

Sliding stops

The horse stops by driving his hocks underneath him and sliding on his hind feet while the front legs continue to walk. The stop should be in a straight line before a sliding stop is the 'rundown,' where the horse runs along the side of the arena, building up speed before the stop.

Following the sliding stop, there are three moves: finish and stand still, roll back and move on to the next part of the pattern or the backup.

RollBack

A rollback from a sliding stop is a 180-degree turn over the hocks executed over a stationary weighted inside leg. Leading with the inside front leg and, on achieving the 180 degrees, lope out on the correct lead for the next manoeuvre.

Backup

This should be completed in a perfectly straight line, quickly for at least 10ft (3 m) and is judged on how straight, smooth and quick the manoeuvre is.

 

How is reining judged?

This is an individually judged sport. Judges score between 0 and infinity each run, with 70 denoting an average score. Each horse automatically begins the pattern with a 70; the judge will add or subtract points for each manoeuvre, ranging from -1.5 to +1.5.

 

-1 ½ for an extremely poor execution

-1 for very poor

- ½ for poor

0 for correct with no degree of difficulty

+1/2 for good execution

+1 for very good

+ 1 ½ for excellent

 

A final score of 70 is a good score and one that reiners aspire to achieve. A correct manoeuvre, with no degree of difficulty, will neither gain nor lose points.

To earn a +score, you must show smoothness, finesse, attitude, and quickness when performing manoeuvres. Speed in the pattern increases the difficulty and is rewarded, but only if it is controlled.

Faults resulting in a -score can include opening the mouth excessively, head raising on the stop, anticipating, refusing to change leads, and stumbling, among others.

Disqualification could result from being off-pattern, illegal equipment, disrespect or misconduct by the exhibitor, or evidence of abuse (during or before the run).

 

Equipment and Attire

For protection, horses usually wear splint boots on the front legs and skid boots on the back. Horses often have special horseshoes known as sliders; these shoes have wider plates that are smoother than regular shoes.

 

Western saddlers are best placed to advise on the right saddle for competition riding. Typically for this discipline, you would look for a saddle with forward-hung stirrups designed to seat you back and deep for fast starts and stops, allowing close contact for better communication with your equine partner.

 

Riders wear a long-sleeved shirt, jeans, cowboy boots and chaps. Best to avoid anything too 'blingy' for this competition.

 

Where can I learn more about reining in the UK?

British Reining is the UK governing body and an excellent resource for more information. Reining - British Equestrian

AQHA UK and WES are UK associations that run shows and clinics

You can also find UK western trainers in our business directory

 

Barrel Racing

A race against the clock. Three barrels are set up in a cloverleaf pattern in the arena, and the rider must negotiate the pattern accurately and at speed.

Entering the arena at a gallop makes this an exciting event from the outset; the rider runs to the first barrel, turns a complete circle around the barrel, then steers toward barrel two, circles it, and charges toward barrel three. After barrel three, the final run toward the finish line is at top speed.

The whole thing is over in a few seconds; if heart-thumping, adrenaline-filled fun is your thing, read on!

History of Barrel Racing

This event dates back to the 1930s, starting as a sport for women. At that time, the event alternated between a cloverleaf and figure-eight pattern, and speed was not crucial. It wasn't until 1949 it was judged by the shortest time and not of the appearance of the girl and her horse.

In 1948 the Girl's Rodeo Association (GRA) was formed, and this event started to look more like the fast and thrilling sport we see today. The Women's Professional Rodeo Association (WPRA) replaced the GRA in 1981. The sport now attracts prize money that competes with the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA).

 

Modern Barrel Racing

As with any modern sport, it is open to women and men, with associations such as the Nation Barrel Horse Association (NBHA) and others welcoming women and men into their membership and competitions.

The IBHF (International Barrel Horse Foundation) are now responsible for the development around the world. There are NBHA's in over 20 countries worldwide, including Brazil, China, Italy, the Netherlands, Venezuela, Canada and France.

 

Barrel Racing in the UK

The UKBHA has been set up to promote this sport and increase participation. Aiming to provide coaching and riding opportunities for barrel racers around the UK and a support network that improves the quality and quantity of riders, horses and competitions.

 

Barrel Racing Basics

Three barrels are set up in a cloverleaf pattern, and each rider must turn each barrel as fast as possible. Riders may choose to run a pattern that requires one right-hand turn and two left-hand turns or vice versa. 

The rider must complete the required pattern and number of turns. The pattern is a series of straight lines and quick, tight turns.

Remember, you and your equine partner will only be able to compete at speed after first working at slower gates; as with any competition, accuracy is critical. In this case, accuracy will save you seconds when you are ready to compete. 

 

"The horse's athleticism and mental condition and the rider's horsemanship skills are crucial." Per the IBHF.

 

Practice riding your horse in a figure-eight pattern and circles to help your precision. You should consider stamina and conditioning work (for you and your horse!).

 

Getting Started advice from UKBHA

Working at a walk, as you head across the start line, you should be roughly in line with the third barrel and gradually curve towards the first barrel. About 2 metres before each barrel, you should stop your horse to teach them to slow down before you turn. Once you ask for more speed, your horse must understand that you must slow down to make the turn accurately. If you go into the turn with too much speed, you risk overrunning the turn, and then you will be out of position going on to your next turn.

When making your turn, you want it to be a smooth circle around the barrel. When working slowly, it's important to stay around 6 feet from the barrel, and as you build up the speed, you will come in closer to the barrel. Start too close when you are working slowly, and once you add the speed, you risk that your horse will start to turn too early and run you into the barrel. Remember, the most important rule of all, have fun. Facebook: UK Barrel Racers/UKBHA or email ukbha@outlook.com

 

Judging and Scoring

Rules may vary by association, so be sure to read the rule book! The first and second barrels are spaced 90 feet apart, with 105 feet to the third barrel.

 

This is a speed event, so as you would expect, penalties are dealt in seconds and in a class where seconds can mean the difference between winning and losing, a five-second penalty can be significant. Many associations will use electronic timers and sensors to ensure accuracy when recording the start and finish times.

To be successful in this class, the competitor must complete the pattern without knocking over any barrels. Tipping a barrel may result in a five-second penalty, and deviating from the pattern results in a zero score.

 

Tack and Equipment

Sports boots help to protect the horse's legs against injury.

Saddles tend to have deep seats and short skirts. This will position you to be able to "sit deep" and "step out" through fast, tight turns with your legs slightly forward. A breast collar to keep the saddle from shifting back during fast starts can be helpful. You should consult a good saddle fitter to ensure you have the right equipment for the type of equine sport you have in mind.

 

Apparel

Western hat or safety hat, long-sleeved western shirts or blouses, riding jeans, western boots, and a western belt is considered a standard dress code.

 

Where can I learn more?

Below we have linked our related articles, which you may find useful to learn more. You can also check out our western horse directory to find trainers and coaches. You can also visit the UK BHA website to find clinics and events in your area.

 

Halter & Showmanship

What's the difference between Western Showmanship and Halter? 

Halter focuses on the horse's conformation, whereas showmanship concentrates on the handler and the performance. 

Halter

In a halter class, horses are judged on their conformation and whether it represents the breed ideal. They should be well-mannered and show balance, structural correctness, good movement, and characteristics appropriate to their breed and sex. 

Classes are typically split by sex (mares, geldings and stallions) and age (weanlings, yearlings, 2-year-olds, 3-year-olds and aged horses), but sometimes they may be grouped together. These classes are usually affiliated with a breed association such as AQHA or APHA. 

 

If you need to know whether your horse will be competitive in Halter classes, ask a trainer or more experienced competitor for their opinion. However, just because your horse may not be a multiple Grand Champion does not mean you can't still have a go. Halter classes provide valuable show experience, especially for younger horses. Additionally, remember that different Judges have different preferences. It is not unknown to see a horse place low under one judge only to win under another. 

 

Showmanship

Unlike Halter, Showmanship focuses not on the horse's conformation but on the handler's ability to show the horse. The class is judged on the exhibitor's and horse's ability to execute a pattern consisting of a combination of manoeuvres. The horse must be well-conditioned and groomed, and the pattern executed smoothly and precisely. The exhibitor should be poised and confident, and their body position is also judged. 

Turnout is important, but the horse is not judged on its conformation in this class, unlike halter. Any horse (and anyone) can excel in Showmanship! 

For most associations, Showmanship is a scored class. For example, the AQHA judging system scores each manoeuvre from very good to very poor. An overall final score from 0-100 is chosen. Minor, major and severe faults result in point deductions. The overall presentation of the exhibitor and horse is also a factor. Showmanship is usually a class for Amateur or Youth exhibitors; however, some associations and unaffiliated shows will put on Open Showmanship classes. 

Why?

Why not would be a better question. There are many reasons to have a go at these classes. These classes teach a horse to have good ground manners, which is essential in any successful partnership. Learning to control your horse on the ground has many benefits, including helping to build a relationship and ensuring your horse is safe to handle. This relationship can also make your horse easier to handle for farriers, vets, etc. – particularly useful in critical times. A horse that calmly stands for a vet can help in a stressful situation. Good control on the ground can improve your ridden work too. Another reason may be that your horse may be too young to be shown in ridden classes. Also, they are an excellent way to get points on your horse if you compete in affiliated events. Last but not least, a key reason to have a go is that they're fun!

 

Showmanship Manoeuvres 

-Walk

-Jog

-Extended jog

-Stop

-Backup (straight and curved)

-Turn 90 (1/4), 180 (1/2), 270 (3/4) or 360 (complete turn) degrees. Pull turns are not used.

-Set up (setting the horse up to stand squarely) 

 

-Inspection (where the judge ‘inspects' the horse) 

 

Equipment

Halter and showmanship require less equipment than ridden classes. All you need is a halter and lead. A show halter is leather and often adorned with varying amounts of silver. A leather lead with a chain is then attached. The halter must be well-fitted, and they do come in different sizes. It may be worth asking others to try theirs on for size before investing in your own. The quality can also vary widely.

 

Turnout & Presentation

Turnout is crucial in these classes. Horse and exhibitor should be immaculate. Many exhibitors also clip their horses' facial hair (whiskers and ears) around the coronet band and sometimes the white markings. 

Turnout is often influenced by the other classes in which the horse may be shown. For example, an all-around pleasure-type horse usually has a short mane that will be banded, whereas a reiner, or ranch horse, may have a longer mane left un-banded. Furthermore, a horse shown in ranch riding won't wear hoof black. 

 

The exhibitor's presentation is also paramount in Showmanship. You need to be smart and tidy. Remember, you can be up close with the judge in this class, so details matter. Makeup and clean, manicured nails can be the finishing touches that make a difference in a close competition. In halter, there is less emphasis on the exhibitor with more focus on the horse, but as with any class, you should always try and present yourself as best as possible. 

 

Get Practising

The best way to get started and succeed in these classes (especially Showmanship) is to get practising. In both classes, your horse needs to be set up to stand squarely, which takes practice. 

However, methods will differ between the classes. In halter, you can manually move their feet. In Showmanship, the set-up must be achieved 'off the halter'; in other words, you cannot touch the horse or point at their feet. Teaching a horse to stand still and quietly can take time. Showmanship manoeuvres take practice; it is the key to success. Ten minutes a day can make all the difference. 

If you don't get to see your horse regularly, there are still things you can practice in the comfort of your home. Hang a halter on a chair and practise your footwork for the inspection. Make a conscious effort to move with good posture, poise and confidence. Showmanship can be addictive and very rewarding when you start to see the results of your hard work. 

Halter has fewer manoeuvres and is not centred around executing a perfect pattern. However, this does not mean there is nothing to practice! Your horse still needs to be able to lead at the walk and jog, be set up to stand squarely and stand still and quietly to be judged. They must also be well-mannered. It is worth spending time on this at home in preparation, especially with younger horses. Remember, horses can be more unsettled on the day of the show, so if you can't do these things consistently at home, it'll be even more challenging in the class.

 

What is Western Trail?

Trail is an arena class and allows you to demonstrate your horse's ability and that he is adaptable and pleasurable to ride through an obstacle course. The trail class is judged on performance over obstacles, emphasising manners, response to the rider, and quality of movement. Most western associations have a trail class;

AQHA describe the trail class as

 

 "The trail class tests the manoeuvrability of an American Quarter Horse through an obstacle course. Mandatory obstacles include one in which the rider will open, pass through and close a gate. Scoring is based on the horse's willingness, ease and grace in negotiating the course. The other two mandatory obstacles are riding over at least four logs or poles and one backing obstacle."

 

The UK's Western Equestrian Society description of trail

 

"This class requires horse and rider to negotiate a series of obstacles placed on the arena surface. The horse is marked on its attitude on approaching and dealing with each element of the course. Obstacles include a gate, walking, jogging or loping over poles and backing between poles or around cones. Other obstacles can be four poles forming a square of between 5 and 6ft in which the horse must turn 360 degrees, side passing over, in front of, or between poles in both directions, and carrying an object from one point to another."

 

Trail Manoeuvres

The course contains 6 to 10 obstacles, including mandatory and optional obstacles. Three mandatory obstacles will be included in all patterns; several optional obstacles can be added.

 

Mandatory Trail obstacles

 

Open, pass through, and close the gate.

TOP TIPS - Working the Gate

• Make sure you can side pass, back up

• Take your time. Don't rush up to the gate inside pass or rush through the whole gate manoeuvre.

• Break down the gate into smaller parts to build your confidence and understanding of the task

• Open the gate wide at first and make it easy

• It's ok to let go of the gate when practising

• Practise, practise, practise; I always say it because it works!

Full gate article here

 

Ride over at least four logs

Success Tips - Lope Over Poles

• Make sure you have a good collected rhythmical lope.

• As you approach the poles, pretend they are not there.

• It's okay to go back to single poles.

• Remember your position, go easy on the hand and leg aids so that the judge sees an effortless ride.

• It's difficult when the judges' eyes are on your but do try to remain relaxed.

• I keep saying it, but schooling, repetition of obstacles and practising the correct techniques will result in higher marks in the show pen. Good Luck!

Full guide here

 

A backing obstacle

TOP TIPS - Trail Back through

• As you draw the hand back - be soft! You don't want to ask to go too fast accidentally

• If you want to stop, remember to drop the hand and quit pulling

• Be easy with the leg when you want to straighten up

• Aim to have the smallest of cues to step back eventually - shifting the weight back in the saddle and deep in your heels will allow you to use less hand

• In perfecting the back up it will take time to coordinate your hand and leg so that you can keep the front end of the horse in one sport while moving the rear - and vice versa!

Full guide here

 

Optional Trail obstacles

• Water obstacle

• Serpentine at walk or jog

• Carrying an object

• Ride over wooden bridge

• Put on and remove slicker

• Mailbox

• Side pass

   

Unacceptable obstacles

• Tires

• Animals

• Hides

• PVC pipe

• Dismounting or ground ties

• Jumps

• Rocking or moving bridges

• Water box with floating parts

• Flames

• dry ice

• fire extinguisher

 

Judging and Scoring (Based on the AQHA scoring system)

Basis of 0 to infinity, with a score of 70 as an average performance

Each obstacle is scored on a range from a +1½ to -1½

Points added or subtracted from the manoeuvres:

-1½ extremely poor, -1 very poor, -½ poor, 0 average

+½ good, +1 very good, +1½ excellent.

 

Penalties

Contains ½-point, 1-point, 3-point, and 5-point penalties, with the most severe due to:

Dropping slicker or object

Letting go of gate or dropping rope gate

Use of either hand to instil fear or praise

Stepping out of, falling, or jumping off an obstacle with more than one foot

Blatant disobedience (kicking out, bucking, rearing, striking)

Obstacle score of 0

Ride outside course boundary

Wrong lead through entire obstacle

Fail to complete an obstacle

Wrong line of travel

Touching the horse to lower the head

Third refusal or evasion of the obstacle

Use of two hands when riding with a curb bit

 

Western Wear for the Trail Class

We asked Avril Wilson, a talented British show clothing designer, what should be worn for trail classes:

Trail, Western Riding and Pleasure are informal classes. This means the judge focuses on your horse riding, so you can wear whatever you like! These classes give you so much freedom. For women riding jackets and vest sets look vibrant, smart and fun with all of their leather appliqué. 

Vest sets are especially good options because you can change the colour of the shirt under the vest, creating a whole new look!

Make sure you wear cowboy boots, cowboy hat, or hard hat. Chaps finish off the winning look.

 

Tack and Equipment

A good equitation saddle is excellent for this class; make sure it's clean and in great condition.

The same applies to the bridle, a suitable working bridle with an appropriate bit (check the show rules).

 

Useful Resources

If you are thinking about giving trail a try, here is a roundup of resources you might find useful:

 

Videos:

One Pole at a Time is a how-to instructional video series for those interested in trail competition at American Quarter Horse Association events.

 

This three-part series features Tim "The Trail Man" Kimura, who designs the trail class courses for the AQHA World Championship events. Learn how to measure and set up trail class obstacles at home, along with valuable tips and tricks of the trade that will help you excel in showing trail classes.

 

Ranch Horse Cutting

There aren't many opportunities in the UK to compete in cow classes, but it would be amiss not to include these classes. Here's our overview of Ranch Horse Cutting.

Ranch Horse cutting is unlike regular cutting in that the cattle are individually numbered, and the rider gets his cow by picking a number out of the judge's hat. Time will begin when the competitor crosses a line before entering the herd. The competitor must then quietly separate the allocated cow from the herd and keep it there, the turnbacks doing their work the same way as in a regular cutting contest.

Turnbacks are the horse and riders that keep the herd organised while the cutting works a single cow. The turnback rider needs to keep turning the cow toward the cutting horse and rider, so it challenges them and tries to return to the herd.

You've got three minutes, and as it's a judged rather than timed class, it's up to you how you make the best use of the time. A whistle will be blown at the 90-second point to let you know how things are progressing. Most people would say that if you have yet to show your horse's cutting skills by then, it's best to remember that and start working on penning the cow.

If you exceed the three-minute time limit without penning, it's a heavy penalty. So, work your cow against the two turnbacks until you feel your boy has done his best, and then tell the turnbacks you have done cutting and take the cow away up the arena, making sure it passes between a marker cone and the pen.

Ranch cutting departs significantly from the regular cutting class, so you will not be penalised for reining your horse while working the cow. As you might expect, given the overall ranch horse ethos, your horse is being judged on cattle working ability in the real world; you get the job done whether you need to rein your horse. That said, if your horse can do it all independently without the need for cues from his rider, he'll score higher than one that needs a bit of guidance.

 

The moral is that if your cow horse isn't quite finished for cutting work, he can still do well in a ranch cutting class where a lot of the quality decisions (such as which cow to pick to start with) are made for you.